Notes From October 13th

1900, Before this time they weren't separated into there own industries.
Graphics: (my own definition)

• Communicating through images and text
• This can be anything from posters, letterheads to animations and product designing.
• We are constantly surrounded by graphics. 
• An interpretation of something using mixed media to convay something in an informative way.

Photography:

• Capturing an image
• A moment frozen in time
• Capturing a memory or emotion in time permanently not just temporarily.
• A way of communicating through a still image.
•  Limited in terms of its media-potentially the most widely used within the industries
• Eye catching/meaningful and deep

Fine Art:

• A body of work
• Ideas taken from everywhere.

Task, where I could see practitioners work (around college):

• Posters (graphics and photography)
• Fire exit sign (graphics)
• Carpet (fashion designer)
• Certificates (graphics)
• Class photographs (photography)
• Bin (graphics and fashion)
• Signs and Arrows (graphics)
• Blinds (fashion and graphics)
• Photographs on the walls (photography)

Could be anything from:

• Advertising
• Signs
• Logos
• Information
• Garden Design
• Furniture
• Photography
• Road Signs
• Car Designs
• Maps
• Clothing
• Surface Pattern
• Posters
• Slogans
• Boundary Lines
• Cutlery
• Displays
• The list is endless as everything we see someone has designed!

The word 'Semiotic' means communicating through signs.

Fashion:

Clothes are designed for function where as the word fashion has a very different meaning.

The first person to be branded a 'fashion designer' was Charles Frederick Worth, 1826-1895.

• At this point instead of there being just a seamstress and the potential client coming to them they started to go out and show people there designs and drawings and getting paid commission.
• They advertising in magazines where often illustrated as photography was expensive and far and few between.
• Fashion was slowly moving but over a very long period of time.
• Delicate beading and small details would have been made by hand and not machine.
• Bright colours weren't really widely used as the quality of the colours where not seen as 'stable', the colours used would be very earth like.

Social Issues:

Fashion would be directed at people at the wealthier class as they would be able to buy the luxurious items of clothing where as the lower class would be wearing clothes for functional things and would give fashion a second thought. 

Someone else such as the maid would have to dress the women as the garments weren't functional, such as the women wouldn't be able to go to far from home as if they needed the toilet someone would have to be there to help.

Gender:

In 1894 the status changed. 'The Origin of Species' was a book wrote about evolution which effected the whole society, it seemed to shake up who could wear, the particular way a male should look and the particular way a female should look and there should be no crossover. This challenged women going out dressed in mens suits in the 1900's which seemed scandalous at the time. This changed society.

Orientalism:

This means people where able to travel, and people of all classes where able to travel not just if you where of a higher class. They where able to collect exotic fabrics, items and images which where bought back to Europe. This bought a different perspectives and ways of thinking and designing.

Paul Poiret, was almost like Picasso of the fashion world. Poiret started out with a job as a umbrella maker which was a skilled trade. He collaborated within fine art with a designer called Raoul Dufy using colour, imagery and pattern which they collaborated to produce a printed fabric in 1911 known as the 'evening gown'. 

Fashion, Celebrities and Music 

Ideas of branding- putting a celebrity with a product to make it sell.

Points in history when males became interested with fashion. This made a boom in the illustrative world as in 1915 photography was still far to expensive.

Fashion was a means of control, using clothing almost like a uniform so no one would stand out and no one would have there own identity.

In the 1940's it was the Hollywood period. (Paris)

Models in the clothes made it promotional, people could watch the models on screen which made it seem very real and 'live'. Machinery can in, so instead of one seamstress many garments could be produced at one time to cater for a large market of people. 

In the 1940's + Fashion designers where moved from Paris to America due to Nazi's moving them, this made the fashion industry in Paris collapse. 

In 1957 they were a fashion market produced at teenagers, this was a very new thing as teenagers were not seen to have there own style.

Then in the teenage fashion there became 'youth culture' which by your fashion choice separated you from other groups and made them different. 

Thorstein Veblen, communicating your class by showing your clothes. He wrote a book called 'The Theory of the Leisure Class' 1899. 

"Conspicuous Consumption & Conspicuous Leisure"

Fashion lets you express who you are to the world and your wealth. 

The quick movement in fashion:

The burberry print cheque. 

1. First modelled by a celebrity on a fashion show- aimed at the higher class
2. Slowing moving through a short period of time its ended up being widely sold and is made undesirable and has lost its upper class meaning 
3. The brand Burberry do not use this pattern and colours together due to the type of people that now wear it and have made it undesirable.
4. What it was first supposed it now doesn't give the same message.

This all happened within a very short amount of time, fashion is now moving very quickly.

Fashion is a barometer of cultural changes.

Beauty or ugliness is dependant on cultural attitudes.

Tribal gives a sense of belonging.